Sunday, June 20, 2010

Fatu Hiva -- last of the Marquesas

March 31 -- we left Tahuata for Fatu Hivas, some 50 miles south.  The approach was spectacular with jagged volcanic peaksoutlined in the distance...




At the Baie Omoa, Fatu Hiva with the catamarn 1+1

The preferred anchorage at Baie Hanavave, also known as Baie de Virge or Bay of Virgins was crowded with sailboats, leaving little swinging room.  The radio traffic indicated a bunch of them would leave the next day, so we waited at the bay by the little village of Omoa. The holding was not too good and the anchorage was a little rocky in 23 meters of water. Another WARC boat, the French catamaran 1+1 (a Catana 53) was also there waiting for the boats at Hanavave to clear oout. Ed and I went ashore and took a walk in the village. Bought a few items from the local magasin as well as some bread, We had by now established for fact that no matter where you are in French Polynesia, bread was always good and done in the French way.

The next morning, Francois and Marie-Pierre (wife of Christian, owner of 1+1) decided to hike over the hills to Hanavave and meet us there. Ed and I motored to the bay which still had quite a few boats in it and anchored in about 18 meters. It was nice and still and holding was good. As the pictures show, the terrain is spectacular. There was a nice breakwater with a dinghy area and a boat ramp.





Nature's own stone sculpture

...and "Tikis" everywhere



The church at Hanavave


the village horse and....

the village pig..

So here we were on April Fools day at Fatu Hiva, anchored nicely. However, every now and again, the wind would come roaring down the hills and whistle loudly through the rigging and cause Skylark to swing hard on her anchor. Besides 1+1, 2 other ARC boats, Ciao and Lady Lisa were there. There was also a sailboat from Russia with a couple on board, Alexandre and Angelina. Their sails had been destroyed on the way over, their engine was inoperable, a tough situation to be in. Christian of 1+1 gave them an old sail that he’d kept on his boat which could be modified for their use.

That night, we went to dinner of local food at a Marquesan house – an informal affair at 1700 CFP per person. Our party consisted the Skylark crew, Christian and his wife Marie Pierre and the Russians who’d been invited by Christian to join in. The dinner was at the home of Cathie, a local woman who prepared a meal of Tahitian raw tuna, fried chicken, papays salad and fried breadfruit. The food was served up in generous quantities and a great time was had by all.

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