Gibraltar

Aug 15/16 all night slog though heavy seas and currents, Skylark is making an unplanned stop at Gibraltar for rest and recuperation. Starting out from Puerto Sherry in the afternoon after taking on diesel, the sailing winds were good. Towards evening, winds whipped up to 25 + knots. Sea conditions with 2 to 3 metre waves required handsteering under staysail, small main and mizzen to avoid taking on the seas abeam. Quite tiring without the autopilot. Francois caught 2 tuna about 2 to 3 kg (we have pictures this time to prove it. We ate tuna sashimi and sushi for dinner in less than ideal conditions. As night fell, the seas turned rough with winds gusting to 40 knots and waves crashing over Skylark constantly. It was tough in the dark not know which direction the waves were coming from. Wave periods were 3 to 5 seconds, causing the boat to pitch and crash with an alarming bang each time. The sounds were amplified because of Skylark's strong monocoque construction (deck and hull are fused not bolted on) which worked like a giant drum. Water came over the cockpit windshield and we were thankful for Skylark's protected cockpit and steering position. Visibility in the pitch darkness was poor but we were able to keep out of the way of heavy commercial vessel traffic by monitoring their AIS positions. The weather was so bad the fishing fleets stayed in port between Cadiz and Tarifa. Reduced sail so as not to hit the Strait in the darkness but even with the smallest of triangles out, the boat still moved at 6 knots or more. As day broke, we had hardly made any way past Tarifa. The pan pan calls from Tarifa and Malaga radios for thje missing seaman continued at regular intervals. With such conditions, the search can't continue for too long. The current in the Strait together with waves, kept the boat moving but barely -- about one knot. A tedious passage for a while. The wind fell off a little and we moved inshore. Much better conditions and speed picked up considerably. Finally the "Rock" came into view in the distance. The approach to Gibraltar is quite magnificent. We pick our way around the big ships in port and made our way to the marina at Marina Bay which is right by the airport runway. The marina staff guided us to our berth where Skylark moored Med style for the first time -- stern to the quay wall and a bow line to a mooring. The passarelle (gangway from boat to shore) was deployed for the first time. It is nice to be in an English speaking environment again. Lots of British boats around us, including some big motor yachts under re-possession by banks. The food at the waterfront restaurants is mediocre at best. There is no wi-fi at the marina, so we will have to find a cafe that has it to post this blog which explains the lateness.

Sunday was spent exploring the town, the cemetery for the dead from Nelson's Battle of Trafalgar. Many fading headstones but fascinating that many of the graves marked British military and administrative personnel who died of a fever rather than the battle. Walked to the cable car station and rode up to the top or the Rock where we were greeted by some fairly aggressive apes. The view was great as the pictures show.

We are pressing on to Marbella on Tuesday and perhaps beyond if conditions are good the forecast is for weather to deteriorate towards the weekend. More when we stop next and have internet access.